Cook this Book

Saucyman – Which cookbook should I give to give to my husband for Christmas?

Well if he is anything like me, he will love to unwrap Thomas Keller’s newest tome, Under Pressure. Keller’s two previous works Bouchon and The French Laundry Cookbook, feature beautiful photographs, precise instructions and both are well written -always a bonus (and the exception) in a cookbook. Under Pressure is stunningly beautiful - again photographed by French Laundry collaborator Deborah Jones. In this volume Keller takes on the number one problem facing home cooks across the US, high temperatures.

Under Pressure introduces the theory and practice of Sous vide – a cooking technique based on using low temperatures to achieve superior results. Harold McGee, of On Food and Cooking fame (also a great gift for the thinking cook) introduces the book, explaining the science behind the theory. The importance of one of the world’s leading chefs encourage cooks to turn it down cannot be underestimated. More flames is not more macho – well, maybe it is for a campfire but not when you are working to extract the most flavor out of fish, veg and meats.

Pretty to look at, fundamentally sound and motivates a cook to get in the kitchen and try new things – adds up to a great combo. If it weren’t for the $75 price tag I would recommend the title to all.

If Thomas Keller seems too practical, this season in particular is the season for Molecular Gastronomists. Ferran Adria of El Bulli fame has a gorgeous new title out called A Day at El Bulli, rival gastronomist Grant Achatz released a sharp looking book named after Chicago restaurant Alinea and co-founder of the molecular gastronomy movement, Herve This’ new book Kitchen Mysteries are all on the shelves this season. At its best Molecular Gastronomy looks to use science and understanding to improve the flavor, taste and texture of food. At its worst gastronomy is boys with toys - technology and trickery are used to enhance foods – not unlike the manipulation of industrial processed foods, only on a smaller, more expensive scale. The Adria brothers, Achatz and This are the best of the best, unfortunately they all released books into a slumping economy. It isn’t so much the price tags of these books but the current zeitgeist dictates most cooks are going to look for more austere recipes and meals to cook at home for the upcoming year.

For a title that uses fact-based-cooking without all the fussiness is Shirley Corriher’s Bakewise. Possibly better known as the pitch perfect straight woman next to Alton Brown’s clowning on Good Eats, Corriher explains why things work or don’t work in the kitchen. Her book, Cookwise, is one of the more consulted volumes in the Saucyman collection and despite owning about a dozen really good books on baking, I look forward to adding Bakewise to the collection – I know it is a book problem not a reading opportunity and I have learned to live with it.

In our next post, I will recommend general titles: Joy of Cooking, Fannie Farmer or Better Homes and Gardens – what should your go to cookbook be for everyday cooking?