Truffleupagus

Small things come in small packages - I know, I heard differently too. My friend and neighbor left a gift of small glass jar on my front porch. Inside wrapped inside a paper towel, about the size of a shelled walnut was one Oregon black truffle.

Truffles, like mushrooms, are the fruiting body of a fungus – there just has to be a better word than fruiting to describe the activity of fungal growth. Unlike mushrooms, truffles grow underground, usually in symbiosis with oak or linden trees, but occasionally they are found growing on the roots of hazel or birch trees. A skilled truffle hunter might be able to locate the presence of buried truffles by looking closely for the winged helomyza tuberiperda hovering above the spot where truffles are growing. Short of keen vision in a forest and fortuitous timing; catching the insects as they are ready to deposit their larvae on the truffle, most trufflers rely on the aid of an animal to help locate their prey. Historically pigs have been used to locate truffles but this is problematic for two reasons – although the pig will instinctively root, helping dig up the truffle, they will also eat it. Secondly, since truffles are taken off - possibly poached - of private or public lands: Taking a casual stroll with your swine through the woods might arouse suspicion of possible, strike, probable malfeasance. Instead, dogs are now the preferred truffle hunter – although the Saucydogs would perform very poorly at this type of activity, there are apparently breeds that excel at this task.

Not all truffles are equal – besides the different species within the genus tuber, the local growing climate, called terroir, plays an importance in the flavor of the truffle. It is believed the area in France near Perigord is the world’s best spot to find the black truffle. The Piedmont area in Italy is thought to be home to the finest white truffles, which are sometimes described as garlicky but I would describe the taste and flavor as pronounced, decidedly pronounced. Oregon black truffles are not as distinct in flavor or aroma as their European counterparts, but they are available fresh out of the ground.

For the most part cooking literature advises simple preparations – omelet, pasta, potatoes – to let the flavor of the truffle stand out. The other school of thought advocates matching the truffle to strong flavors – on my last major vacation, I passed through Italy during truffle and chingali (wild boar) season. I still dream of the ragu of chingali, truffle and juniper berries served over farfalle (We say bow tie, but the term means butterfly) pasta.

I tend to lean for the latter school even for the milder Oregon truffle. My gift truffle ended up inside boned/deboned chicken thigh with a few more shavings added to a demi-glace thinned with a little chicken stock spooned over the top of the truffle embedded thigh– the effect was subtle, the result was good. Richard Olney recommends a roasting boned chicken leg filled with breadcrumbs, brandy and truffle shavings.

Whether prepared to be the star of the show or carefully matched to compliment its aroma and flavor, truffles should be used quickly. The thing about keeping a truffle in Arborio rice so it scents the rice, not really true, the rice dries out the truffle and the aroma is like perfume, it dissipates after a time. Wrapped in a paper towel or a piece of parchment, sealed in a clean glass container is a less showy, but better way to keep a truffle. The truffle should be added at the last possible moment and you don’t need a fancy pants truffle shavers that cost over a $100 – a good cheese grater works well for small portions, a sharp vegetable peeler is yields thin slices and a paring knife makes slightly thicker cuts.