Arbitrary Milestone

This, right here, is the 200th post of the Saucyman Blog. Rather than look forward to the next 200 posts, let’s instead take a look back (because Saucyman, the person, not the blog, is like that) and revisit the single most searched topic on the site, asparagus.

Asparagus, for those who remember from the 2008 entry, is a member of the lily family that has been cultivated in and around the Mediterranean since antiquity. The wild shoots still found growing near England’s southeast shore are unfortunately known as Britannia Spears. Or not, the name part anyway, the plant really grows wild near water throughout Europe.

The small arrested limbs on the stalk are called bracts, the edible shoots emerge from a corm and asparagus pee is caused by our bodies processing asparagusic acid into a chemical called methyl mercaptan –it was originally thought that not everyone produced mercaptan, a chemical closely related to skunk spray, but now it is believed not everyone possesses the ability to detect the scent, but since science is not especially static, so that understanding could change by the end of this post.

The plant is finicky to grow, taking 2 to 3 years before it is productive. Due to issues with the pernicious fusarium, a rot that is the black plague of asparagus, Oregon State’s agricultural extension recommends not planting the crop in any field that has previously grown asparagus. The shoots appear and mature at different times meaning the crop must be constantly monitored and then harvested by hand – all these reasons make the veg rather expensive.

As the asparagus season winds down on Saucyman’s home court, there is still enough of the veg around to make a good meal. Wrapping blanched asparagus in prosciutto, topping with a soft, semi-stinky fontina cheese and broiling until delicious is easily the 3rd best thing Marcella Hazan ever taught me to do. Although it is a traditional accompaniment, I think/believe/resolutely know that the butter – egg yolk combo known as hollandaise overwhelms the flavor of asparagus, yet I think nothing of serving spears covered in a rich & spicy coconut milk/peanut sauce – kitchen hypocrite, a kitchocrite - a cookocrite, I am something for sure.

Asparagus is a bold flavor, the trick is matching the veg with flavors strong enough to hold their own without overwhelming it. Asparagus served on the small, yeasted buckwheat crepes known as blini is good – lox and/or sour cream are pleasant but not necessary additions. For those who hate blini or don’t want to make them but are still buckwheat-curious; asparagus and soba noodles work well but linguini might be a more popular noodle, at least in the western pantheon - especially with a garlic cream sauce. Grilled asparagus is a treat and easy if you already have the grill going. An asparagus omelet is simple - not in the limited capacity sense of simple, more in the good and natural way. As summer arrives, my two favorite asparagus meals are a sandwich; made by loading a buttered baguette full of blanched asparagus and thinly sliced red onions that have nearly been macerated in a mixture of mustard and vinegar. Or asparagus sautéed with beef and garlic both cooked in the cool of the morning, then served chilled over arugula in the early evening. It is the best meal for those 90+ degree days.