Purple Herb, Purple Herb

Lavender? Really? Why? Herbal with a Cause

Last time I had lavender it came in shortbread – the combination of the cookie’s high fat content and the vast preponderance of lavender created an aftertaste that was evocative of soap. Nor am I huge fan of Herbes de Provence, the flavoring packet from Southern France consisting of basil, fennel, thyme, rosemary, marjoram and lavender, finding that the lavender ruins otherwise good herbs. Chopped fresh Herbs de Provence works for vegetables and lamb; dried the Herb(es) is used in slow cooking stews.

The problem is one of overkill – a little lavender goes a long, long way - unlike vanilla, where most cooks believe if a teaspoon is good, a tablespoon is better. Lavender is more akin to nutmeg, a spice where increasing the fraction called for can overwhelm a preparation very quickly. However, when used with restraint, lavender can be really good, really. It does best when it allows itself to sing in a chorus of ingredients rather than sing a song.

In antiquity, lavender was used as the main ingredient in a tisane, reputed to calm humors. Modernity’s equivalent is a lavender Martini, which does have a lovely scent, a slight purple hue and if drunk in quick succession, the ability to make things not matter as much as they used to; calming in its own way. Using the guiding principle things that grow together, go together, goat cheese made from livestock that graze the herb from rocky hills has a built in lavender flavor in just the right proportion . Combining lavender with rosemary rounds the flavor of both herbs out like a harmony.

Despite its fame in stews, the herb might be at its best culinarily in desserts. Where fat seems to amplify the herb’s flavor, sugar takes the edge off, lavender flavored jams are notable. Lavender matches together well with fruit particularly members of the prunus family - especially cherries, plums and peaches. Since the herb is looses some of its power in vinegar – something like lavender scented balsamic vinegar reduction served over grilled peaches would be good - fig ice cream flavored with lavender blossoms would be better.

Not to sound like a therapist but the issue with lavender is one of trust, it plays out in two different ways. First is the confidence to trust your ingredients. And it is difficult to this to do when you don’t use an ingredient often. Secondly, you have to trust your audience. If you want to use lavender, be subtle: Maybe people won’t be able to single out lavender as a mystery ingredient, but it is the overall effect of a meal or dish, not the recognition of a single ingredient, the reflects your skill and ability as a cook.