Localized Guilt

Saucy – I want to serve asparagus at my Christmas dinner. I am fighting this impulse because I am a local, seasonal type of girl and the asparagus has frequent flyer miles. What should I do? – Something so wrong, feels so right

Food travels, on average, between 1300 to 1800 miles to reach an American’s table. This is in part because our prime agricultural areas/states of Florida and California are tucked away in the corners of the country. Even allowing for the size and scope of our country, there is the issue of terrior: Distinct climates and localized knowledge means that certain areas produce superior products French wines, Belgian ales, German lagers, Italian cheese, Spanish olive oil, Thai fish sauce, Japanese soy. Nationalistically, California citrus keeps me happy, healthy and well cocktailed through the winter months.

This centuries old action moving food from agricultural areas to populated centers/markets is compressing. What was once moving wheat across the Mediterranean in a sailing ship or carrying dried spices in a caravan is now more diverse, faster and commonplace. The speed and low cost of transportation coupled with a willing market who’ll pay for such goods means the winter months do not have to be defined by eating onions, potatoes and cabbage. What is exploitation of the world’s resources and flaunting of natural seasons to some is the miracle of modern transportation, worldwide investment, solvent currencies, trade and relatively peaceful borders.

As someone who grew up eating onions, potatoes and cabbage in the cold dark winter months - A diet supplemented with canned fruit and veg. The possibility of fresh produce in December makes me positively Ayn Rand about the power of commerce and trade. Besides it’s not like local foods advocate, Barbara Kingslover, author of Animal, Vegetable, STFU Already, will come to your house and beat you up* if you serve imported asparagus (*More accurately shame you into doing what she feels is important and can afford to do).

Just think about your all the Christmas cookies that have passed within your reach in the last few weeks…Has all the well traveled vanilla and chocolate affected your conscious in a similar manner? Fresh, local and seasonal may have morphed into a mantra, but it is truly an ideal – something to strive for not an act to handcuff yourself with.

If you are seeking permission, you have it. Food is to enjoy. It is called a treat because when it is once in a while indulgence, it is good to treat yourself. And if this really bothers you I’m sure you can buy a carbon offset for your asparagus or you can put Wendell Berry books under the tree. Or you can write back and I will share a recipe for a mélange of roasted wintered turnips, rutabagas and parsnips.